Showing posts with label racism. Show all posts
Showing posts with label racism. Show all posts

Sunday, September 15, 2013

'Nude' in Fashion, Beauty, & Culture

For far too long the term nude (sometimes skin or flesh-colored), has taken on a different meaning than it should in the fashion and beauty industry. In discussions about how race, particularly Whiteness (via White supremacy & dominance) affected our perception of what is beautiful, at times what's left out of the conversation is how it created a default look that seems to be widely accepted by general population. In the efforts to unravel how society can change this attitude, it is often met with criticism, faux science, then derailed, dismissed, and ended with a predictable compliments, which further pushes the subject under a filthy rug. This allows the issue to continue remaining.

Rather than be protective of this attitude, society should examine and analyze not just why we view beauty through a Eurocentric lens, but how that determines and decides what is default. Most particularly, when it comes to universal terms becoming synonymous with whiteness, e.g. nude.

To grasp why whiteness is by standard default, it should be explained how White supremacy thrived, and still continues to flourish on a global scale. It was allowed to rule and control, not through a prior popular consensus, but due to enforcement. The methods of White supremacy worked by denigrating, dehumanizing, and mocking all that is non-White, usually at the expense of Blacks/Africans. It has been used as a measuring to stick to validate the worthiness of people, their humanity, and aesthetic. Today one can argue we celebrate differences and embrace diversity, but not long ago these differences deprived and shamed those who couldn't fall in line with the 'standards.' Inability to obtain set standards continued ridicule, and birthed Black stereotypes (among others) like Mammy, Sambo, Coon, Mandingo, the Black Buck, pickaninny, Jezebel, Sapphire, and the list goes on. Today, we see how the prevalence of this degradation has been reflected in ads, marketing, film, beauty, and fashion, and in various cultures in general.

It was further succeeded by oppressed groups internalizing these stereotypes and images, and viewing themselves through the same lens. The power of the media cannot be underestimated, as it is and continues to be the main enforcer of negative portrayals and misconceptions. As it has, the continuance has thrived and so has its narratives, which continue to plague minority groups.

Moving on into beauty and fashion, I'd say about 99.8% of the time, when the word nude is being used to describe a clothing item or cosmetic product, the color in question is beige, or a similar color that matches the skin-tone Whites typically have. While nude should be a universal color, and surely all lighter persons would not match the commonly accepted nude, there is however an industry that would be there to make and produce colors allowing Whites to have various options. This extends far beyond than you'd imagine. But what about the folks who are darker? Of course, population and consumer demographic plays a role in production, but why aren't companies tapping into a much ignored demographic? The Black buying-power is estimated to be $1.4 trillion in 2014. Using one example, New York state is in the top states for the largest Black markets. In addition to that, New York is also one of the top fashion capitols of the world and also has one the largest Black populations in the U.S. As a native New Yorker, I can't say I've seen any strides, otherwise I wouldn't be writing this.


50 shades of beige foundation
It's everywhere, and you may not realize it until you put it into perspective. Go to a pharmacy for bandaids—what color is that bandaid? A lightish beige color right? Maybe now we have clear bandaids, but why were they typically lightish beige? And why had they been accepted as the default bandaid color? I'm not an inventor of sorts, but I'm very sure the marketing brain behind clear bandaids created them so they could match anyone regardless of their complexion. But I must also wonder why was creation of a clear bandaid a solution, rather than creating various colors from the get? Skin-color specific bandaids do exist by the way, but I honestly don't find them as much as beige ones.

Next is makeup. For the women who wear it, when you see nude lip colors, what skin color is that nude closest too? And do you not notice that only one type of color is represented? Foundation too, though these are color specific.

50 shades of beige as they call it, a phenomenon of non-White women, in this case Black, being unable to find foundation colors that match their skin complexion. And usually, the foundation colors provided have various colors and types for White women, rarely any for browner women. See the picture to the right. The young woman in the photo is darker than all of the foundation colors (to the right) available.


Nude mannequins
Then we have mannequins which are typically a reflexion of a nude White person, modeling and showcasing clothing marketed towards everyone. In the case of the photo to the left, sometimes the mannequins are just plain white nude in color, and in those rare observations, you can actually find a dark brown one. Nowadays lots of mannequins are colors not reflective of anyones skin tone.

It's pretty much the same for undergarments. Nude is different per person, but not in the fashion and beauty industry. Nude by default is beige and a reflection of the skin tone the White majority shares, or is similar to. It's been so ingrained in me to view this color as nude, I never questioned it before. As a dark brown-skinned woman, it's quite the opposite for me. Everything from stockings, undies, lipstick, lipgloss, and such that are advertised as nude have only one race/color in mind. How am I going to wear a nude-like clothing item or cosmetic, that is the 'nude' of another woman? My nude is not that nude.
Venus Williams' nude shorts

Sure there are nude-like undergarments or clothes for darker women, but they are called what its color is, e.g. pecan, brown, etc; Rarely are these colors referred to as nude, unless otherwise stated. Take the Venus William's controversy a few years ago over her nude-like shorts under her tennis attire. Obviously this would be an example of her nude. But I'm willing to bet, if I referred to Venus' shorts as nude, a lot of people would try to debate that with me. This is why calling light beige nude is problematic. It's centered around Whiteness and people seem to think and accept that's what the word means.


Nude lingerie by aerie
Not long ago I received an email from American Eagle's aerie line. It's a line of lingerie, activewear, and lounge clothing. The email subject mentioned nude lingerie. But since I'm so used to seeing what society deems as acceptable 'nude,' I quickly scrolled through the email not expecting to be interested in what was going to be promoted.

But it wasn't until I noticed that the nudes came in more than just light and bright colors. I did have some criticism about the obvious hierarchy displayed (light at the top/dark at the bottom—also related the subject), but nonetheless I was still shocked that a retail store I've been a faithful customer to, had not only been recently representing women that look like me in their ads, but also had a 'nude' color that may actually look nude on me. Still, if you notice in the photo to the left, there are only two dark brown colors and I guess, two light brown ones. And as per usual, there are four even lighter ones. However, as I previously mentioned, I don't want to exclude that production of nude as beige is likely determined by the demographic of the consumers.

Finding nude colors that represent my skin tone can be a challenge. They are either too light or too dark, or in my case with some foundations, too red. Thankfully, as times change, there are companies who are inclusive of creating nude colors not specific to one type. MySkins is a lingerie website that caters to over 20 nude colors—a whole lot more than aerie's eight.

At times, the general attitude towards a topic like this would be shrugged off as an unimportant issue. And I can't deny it myself, I never thought it was an issue. However I was wrong. When you read between the lines, the normalization of nude is one of the many adverse affects of Whiteness as the dominant value. This topic is just as important to dismantling the dominance of Whiteness as it is a direct result of Eurocentric ideals via White supremacy. Nude should vary, because it does. And because of this normalizing of beige as nude, it has become an actual color type and name.

See for yourself.

Same goes for any reference to flesh-colored. Because whose flesh color are you talking about?

Thursday, July 25, 2013

White Girls Using N-Word....



....or non-Black people using the word for that matter.

I found this video about the N-word going around. In the video a Black woman denounces the usage of the N-word from two White female rappers who stirred ire by using it in their music a few years ago.

I'm not shy about the topic of the N-word, so heed that it will not be entirely censored in this post. 

Nigger, nigga, and negro have long been associated with the word Black and people who bare the description. In fact, they are synonymous whether people choose to admit that or not. What many in the Anglophone world know the word nigger as, is as a racial slur. Nigger without a doubt is one of the most offensive terms in the English language. But there's more of course; there's also spook, coon, pickaninny, sow, and a bevy of nasty words used to denigrate Black people.

The etymology of the word explains that it comes from the word niger, which in Latin means black or dark. Regardless of what this word used to mean, it eventually took on a different meaning in the 17th century, a meaning where it became a word that would be used to degrade the humanity of Black people.

Black people who are descendants of enslaved Africans brought to the colonies have called themselves different terms as years progressed. The last and currently accepted term was African-American, which gained popular usage in the '80s. Prior to that, colored or negro were the accepted terms. Derogatorily however, nigger was always the term used to call blacks, and it was not nor has it ever been an endearing or acceptable term to call Black people. Herein is my issue with echoing retorts that Black people should find no offense with the word due to the usage of it from Black entertainers (comedians/rappers), and some Black people overall who've incorporated the term into their everyday language.

Removing my own personal irritation with the word, I see why some Black people use the term. Some people seem to think that rap music and hip-hop began the reemergence and coining of the word as an endearing term. But the word has always been used against and amongst Blacks—music only popularized it and it DID NOT frickin' start with rap. Any avid listener of soul, blues, funk, or any Black American oldies genre can tell you it has always been used in Black music. The word may have also been a prerequisite for how often it was dropped in Blaxploitation films.

In its current usage, many Black people see it as an endearing term to use amongst themselves. I do not agree with it, however, it only makes sense why despite the words popularity in pop-culture, a lot of Black people do not like to hear non-Blacks use the word. The reason is simple—Black people referring to each other as nigga takes the offense out of the word. Why? Because of its irony. (This doesn't mean there aren't Black people who would be offended though). Non-Blacks, specifically racist Whites, have never used this term in a kind way towards Blacks. It has always been an offensive term used to refer to Black people. Whether someone non-Black might want to feel a closer connection to Blacks by also trying to use it endearingly, they should understand the racial dichotomy is still there and has always been. The negative connotation comes with the power structure White supremacy constructed, which is White/Light against Black/Dark; never the opposite. The "N-word" is triggering for a lot of English-speaking Black folks, and in a lot of cases, the N-word was the last thing Black people heard from racists before being lynched or murdered. So why would someone non-Black want to use it?

Black people have reclaimed the N-word, just as other minority or oppressed groups have with slurs targeted at them. Some women reclaim 'bitch,' and some in the LGBT community reclaim 'fag' or 'homo.' People in these groups using offensive slurs towards each other is ironic. No if, ands, or buts. If you're not Black, you have no right to dictate or police how Black people choose to talk with each other with the word. Because guess what? It's not even in the vocabulary of every Black person. You do however, have the right to correct and take offense by a Black person calling you the N-word if you are referred to as such. Despite the normalizing of the N-word, it's still not a word many people accept.

For non-White minorities who also want to use the word.....no, no, and nope! Being a "minority too" doesn't give you a pass. Please! It's always eye-opening for me to see self-identified 'Spanish' or Asians use the N-word, but flip at the thought of Blacks using anti-Asian/Latino slurs, and then in turn use the N-word again. In NYC where I live, I hear it from non-Black minorities a lot. My question to them is, you have your own racial slurs to reclaim, why do you want to use one that would never affect you? Especially when in some of your cultures, anti-Blackness is almost as common as brushing your teeth. Let's not also ignore that there are also N-word equivalents in your native languages.

You want me to be cool with you saying nigga when you and yours turn around and call me preta? No.

And your Black friends giving you a non-existent pass isn't sound advice to live by. Not every Black person is cool with that notion and you don't know how they'll react. Why? Because we aren't all the same. Just because Black Friend #1 and Black Friend #2 allow you say it around them, Random Black #345 is supposed to be OK with that? Where is the common sense? Does anyone talk to their friends, the way they talk with their parents? Do you joke with strangers the way you joke to your partner? Please! Don't expect people to be comfortable with terms that you use daily because your friends are OK with it. Anyone with good social skills should already know this. Besides, when negative terms are used among friends, I'd assume it was negotiated prior.

I'm also not a fan of Black people calling me the N-word, or my girl friends calling me the B-word, or any other slur. It's not a word I use to call other Blacks, and I choose not to use it because there are other words I choose to use because I know it's usage is brings mixed reactions. I don't buy into the "ER" or "A," analogy either, which posits which version is offensive: niggER or niggA. I feel that a lot of Black people will tell you they are saying nigga, and the ER is not emphasized in pronunciation, allowing some offense to be removed. So the word in essence has evolved:
niger > nigger > nigga
Still, that does not mean that all Black people are comfortable with the word, which is where the "debate" should end. If someone doesn't want you calling them something they don't like, it should be respected. There is no special privilege gained when Black people use the N-word amongst themselves. So the anger towards some Blacks for wanting to use it, and the challenging from non-Blacks who want to use it as well is silly. The "If they can say it, why can't we" retort is flawed logic. Historically, racists have always used this word. It was invented by the British, enforced by WASP's, and exercised by racist Americans. To feel like you're having your rights denied to you because you can't say a frickin' degrading word that has been used pejoratively is whiny, insolent and pathetic. You'd also be delusional for even feeling like your rights are being slighted when it doesn't begin to describe the stereotypes and stigma that plague Black people.

As much as I detest to the popularity of the N-word, I am not going to police how other Black people choose to use it. I know and see why they do and it's always been used among them. If calling themselves the N-word is takes offense out of the word, they should be allowed that. Let oppressed groups use those terms and redefine them amongst themselves. It's not affecting you and never has.  

In agreement with the Black woman in the video, I also say no to White girls using the N-word. Not just with them either, but also non-Black people and Black people using the word. If you want to say it the N-word, then please take the struggles and stereotypes that come with being a nigga too. I promise the word won't seem so catchy then.